Pokemon Card Condition Guide

1. 1

   Angle the card under a bright light

   Hold the card at a 45-degree angle in front of a lamp or window. This exposes edge whitening, surface scratches, and holo scratches that you cannot see head-on. Every graded card was inspected this way first.

2. 2

   Check all four corners

   Look at each corner one at a time. A Near Mint corner has a sharp point. A Lightly Played corner has a small rounded fleck. A Heavily Played corner is visibly rounded like it was sanded. If any corner is bent or dented, drop straight to Heavily Played or lower.

3. 3

   Run a fingernail across the surface

   You should feel nothing but smooth cardstock. If you feel a scratch, a raised bend, or a dent, the card is Moderately Played at best. If your nail catches on a crease line, it is Heavily Played.

4. 4

   Flip it over and check the back

   The back is where players usually miss defects. Look for shuffle scratches, edge whitening on the blue border, ink transfer from other cards, and any warping. Back defects count the same as front defects.

Half-grades (9.5, 8.5, 7.5, 6.5) exist for cards that fall between two full grades. PSA does not use half-grades below 6.5. BGS uses subgrades for centering, corners, edges, and surface, then averages them into a final grade.

• Over-grading your own cards

  The most common mistake. Your Base Set Charizard from 1999 that has been in a binder for 25 years is probably not Near Mint. Angle it under a lamp, check every corner, and be honest. Buyers grade harder than sellers.

• Forgetting to check the back

  Half of a card's condition lives on the back. Shuffle scratches, edge whitening on the blue border, and ink transfer from other cards are all common back defects that people miss because they only look at the front art.

• Ignoring holo scratches

  Holographic and reverse-holo cards scratch differently than non-holos. Small factory scratches in the foil pattern are normal and do not drop a card below Near Mint. Post-production scratches from handling do. Learn the difference by tilting the card.

• Treating any crease as Damaged

  A hairline crease that does not tear the paper is Moderately Played, not Damaged. A crease that tears through the fibers or shows a white line on both sides is Heavily Played or Damaged. Damaged is reserved for structural issues.

• Skipping centering on graded submissions

  A card can be pristine and still grade PSA 8 because of print centering. If you plan to grade a raw NM card, check the front-back centering by holding it up to a light. Off-center prints are print defects, not wear, but they still cap the maximum grade.

• What do NM, LP, MP, HP, and DMG mean on Pokemon cards?+

  They are the five standard condition grades used across every card marketplace. NM (Near Mint) means the card looks unplayed and sells at full market. LP (Lightly Played) means minor wear and 80 to 90 percent of NM value. MP (Moderately Played) means visible wear on multiple areas and 50 to 70 percent. HP (Heavily Played) means serious wear and 25 to 40 percent. DMG (Damaged) means the card has a tear, hole, crease, water damage, or ink and sells at 10 to 25 percent.
• How do I know if my Pokemon card is Near Mint?+

  Angle the card under a bright lamp at 45 degrees. Check all four corners: they should be sharp with no rounded flecks. Check every edge: no whitening lines should be visible. Run a fingernail across the front and back surface: it should feel smooth with no catches. If all four checks pass, the card is Near Mint.
• Is Near Mint the same as Mint?+

  No. Mint is a stricter grade used mostly in grading company terminology. In the raw marketplace ladder used by TCGplayer, Cardmarket, and eBay, Near Mint is the top raw grade. A slabbed PSA 9 corresponds to raw Near Mint. A slabbed PSA 10 corresponds to raw Near Mint with perfect centering.
• What is the difference between Lightly Played and Moderately Played?+

  Lightly Played allows one or two minor defects that require careful angling to see. Moderately Played means defects are obvious from a foot away without angling. If you can immediately point at multiple wear zones, the card is Moderately Played. If you have to look for the wear, it is Lightly Played.
• Is a creased Pokemon card worthless?+

  No. A creased card drops to Moderately Played at best. A card with a crease that tears the paper drops to Heavily Played or Damaged. But a creased 1st Edition Base Set Charizard still sells for several hundred dollars. Rare cards hold significant value even in Damaged condition.
• Should I grade a Lightly Played card?+

  Usually not. A raw LP card will grade PSA 8 at best. Grading fees plus shipping typically run $25 to $50 per card. Only grade LP cards where the PSA 8 sold price exceeds twice the grading cost. For most modern cards this is not the case.
• Does condition matter more for holo Pokemon cards?+

  Yes. Holos scratch more easily and any handling scratch on the foil is visible under angled light. Buyers of Near Mint holos expect no post-production scratches. Factory scratches in the foil pattern are acceptable at NM. Learning to tell the difference matters more for holos than any other card type.
• How do I protect Pokemon cards from wear?+

  Sleeve every card in a penny sleeve before doing anything else. Store sleeved cards in a top loader or a binder with clear, rigid pages. Keep cards flat, away from sunlight, and at stable temperature and humidity. Avoid stacking loose cards or carrying them in a pocket or bag without protection.